Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
